Using Ice Resin (the right way)



 Mixing the Resin

1.)     Begin by measuring Part “A” (Resin) into the measuring cup, add equal Part “B” (Hardener), into the same cup. Measure carefully and don’t estimate.

2.)     Fold resin into hardener and beat for 1 minute.  Scrape sides and bottom thoroughly, continue mixing for 2 full minutes.  Set aside mixed resin for 5 minutes.  **Resting is very important for the self leveling chemistry to work-which will help dissipate the tiny bubbles. (Do not rush)! A warm task light can help activate the process.

3.)     You will have a total of 45 minutes working time, before resin begins to cure.  ICE Resin will harden in six to ten hours (depending on temperature, humidity-warm is best). 

General tips for working with Ice Resin

1.)     Cover your work space with open garbage bags cut open and adhered to your work space.  The slightly oily finish of a garbage bag is perfect for working with resin, especially for using the ICE Resin to cover paper as it will not stick to the plastic.  You can work directly on the surface of the bag.

2.)     Use a tooth pick to guide the resin into the sharp corners of bezels and to pop any air bubbles that might appear as you add inclusions.

3.)     Inexpensive foam brushes can be used to spread the resin over the surface of paper and can be used to seal projects as well.

4.)     Use craft sticks to slowly drizzle the resin into/onto your piece, it is easier to add more than it is to clean up the edges. Start by filling your bezel only 1/3 to ½ full first and then top off the rest after adding any inclusions.

5.)     Once you have poured your piece, set aside to dry, but check on it after 30minutes to see if there are any bubbles rising to the top.  You still have time to pop them, and the self healing attributes of the resin will fill in the divot left by the bubble. Best to do this before the 45 minute working time is up.

6.)     Wet Clean Up: If you drizzle too much onto your piece and it overflows, use baby wipes to clean up. They have a small amount of baby oil in them, which works with the oil based resin. (No water based clean up)

7.)     Hardened Resin Clean Up:  Ice Resin can be filed down, sanded, and then painted with a layer of the resin to reseal, and create a beautiful glass like finish once again.  If you have an overspill or rough edge, begin by filing (if necessary), then sand with 320 grit (if you need to remove a lot of resin), and then switch to a 600 grit to smooth.  Paint on thin layer of resin to re-create the glossy finish.

8.)     Resin is dry within 6-10 hours, and cures to a hard glass like finish in 3 days.  A small or thin layered piece will take the same amount of time to dry as a large or deep one.

ICE Resin on Paper, Photo Images, and Laser Ink Jet Images

1.)     ICE Resin has an amazing and magical effect on ordinary paper, as the resin is picked up by the paper it becomes translucent.  If you have print on both sides of the paper you are covering you will be able to see both sides once the resin seeps in fully.

2.)     If your desired effect is to have a translucent sheet of paper, pour then spread the resin around on first side of the paper with a foam brush, then flip the paper over and paint the opposite side as well, let cure on the plastic surface that’s facing up (this will be the most finished side).  To finish the opposite side, flip and paint on thin layer, let cure and both sides will have a finished look.  Do not stack resin papers on top of each other unless cured for 3 days.

3.)     If you would like to have your image remain color fast (looking exactly the same as your printed image or photograph), create a sandwich with clear packing tape to seal the image from the resin.  (see other side)

Cut your image to fit your piece and go just slightly smaller, cover both sides with a layer of packing tape, and carefully trim  around the image leaving the tiniest sealed edge around the image to insure the resin does not seep in between the tape.

4.)     Other methods of sealing images to keep them color fast are to cover them with a decoupage’, or spray with sealer.  Sandwiching is the safest, way to prevent resin from altering your image.

Adding inclusions

1.)     Adding an inclusion can cause bubbles to form unless you use caution.  Coating the item you wish to add with a thin layer of the resin can cut down on the amount of bubbles that form.

2.)     Just about anything could be included into the resin, such as: Paper, Metal, Charms, Beads, Buttons, Gears, Watch Parts, Sand, Fabric, Ribbon, Pebbles, Dried Flowers, Wood, Moss, Sticks, Bones, Feathers, Wings, Mica Powder, Glitter, Candy, Leaves, Bugs, Oil Paints, and the list keeps going. 

3.)     All materials used for inclusions must be completely dry, or can cause your piece to become cloudy once cured.

Open Backed Bezels:  To create a see through effect with an open backed bezel, cover the back side of the frame with the clear packing tape (sticky side up).  Use a brayer to seal down the edges and prevent resin from seeping out.

Adding Color to your Resin:  You can add color to your resin with artist quality oil paints.  Using a tooth pick stir in a miniscule amount of color into your already mixed and rested resin, let rest an additional 5 minutes.  The same technique can be used for adding mica powder, and glitter.

Pre-Made Craft Molds:  You can pour ICE Resin into pre-made craft molds to create fun resin shapes. Spray mold with a mold release, or wipe down inside of mold with a paper towel that has a small amount of olive oil on it. Ice Resin works on both plastic and silicone molds. Remember when working with molds you will be working upside down.

Additional Facts about Ice Resin 

*MSDA tested-Non Toxic

*Jeweler’s Grade Resin

*Self Doming

* Non- Yellowing

*Cures Crystal Clear like Glass

*Can be colored, cast, embedded, layered, sanded, drilled and altered.











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